Clutch Master Cylinder

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John32
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:42 pm
Dino: Fiat Dino 2.0 Spider

Clutch Master Cylinder

Post by John32 »

I am new to the forum. I have a 67 spider 2 liter. Trying to replace the subject master cylinder under the dash board. It is really a bear. Has anyone replaced the system? Is there a simpler way to do it? Do I need to remove the dash to get to it. The top bolt is almost impossible to reach. Please help.
GaryS
Posts: 47
Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 5:56 pm
Dino: Fiat Dino 2.0 Coupe

Re: Clutch Master Cylinder

Post by GaryS »

Not so bad a job - early 67 cars can be a bit more difficult with hydraulic lines going direct through the firewall without 'union' connections allowing for a completely clean separation of the pedal box from the firewall / interior. It has been many years since I have done this procedure, others please chime in to correct and amend.
Actually, let me preemptively amend my intended advice! For the Clutch master you should be able to do this in car without removal of pedal box which neatly houses brake and clutch hydraulics. You will need to be dexterous and not too large!
Disconnect battery ground cable
Center the steering wheel - then Lock it in closest offset position
remove plastic steering column surrounds
disconnect 2 electrical connector blocks from column switchgear
disconnect wires from Ignition switch ( make notes to assure correct refit)
remove steering wheel (22mm socket required XX EDIT XX > will require 15/16 or 1-1/16 socket, again imperfect memory) be careful when cracking the nut not to break anything unintentionally ...
w/o a steering wheel puller it may be difficult unseating the wheel off the splined shaft - try wacking the shaft center with a drift to unsettle - again be careful to not break anything unintentionally!
8mm socket loosen column switch assembly nut and remove out of the work zone - these units are fragile and difficult to source
Loosen 13mm nuts on long bolts going thru steering column mount
Loosen 13mm nut at universal joint attached to steering box coming through firewall / footbox
Remove long bolts and drop steering column
Remove bolt going thru U joint and separate (may not be easy .. may be easy) remove column assembly out of workspace

NOTE: I do not think you will have the freedom of room to remove CMC with steering in place. If you think you can change out the unit w/o removing steering gear, that would be great! I just do not remember precisely what is required for this particular procedure.

Suck out all brake fluid with baster and tubing from the clutch reservoir, remove reservoir and hose from inlet tubing at firewall. pry out grommet holding the line at firewall.
Disconnect hydraulic line at top rear of CMC - this may be difficult to do in car .. you may have to remove the inlet (10 or 11 mm flare wrench) to give you enough space to swing the wrench!
Loosen and remove the 2 - 13mm bolts holding CMC to pedalbox (may require peculiar arrangement of universal joints and short / long extensions to extract the upper bolt, again just dont remember)

Replace CMC and reverse procedure to complete installation. (hah ha ha hah) Take joy for this is a hobby! and a successful repair of tedious nature does give satisfaction - perhaps with a few nicks and bruises .........

Enthusiasm required and all will be good.
Have Fun :>)
Gary
Last edited by GaryS on Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
John32
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:42 pm
Dino: Fiat Dino 2.0 Spider

Re: Clutch Master Cylinder

Post by John32 »

Thanks GaryS. I will give it a shot. The manufacture could have done a better on this. They must have assumed that no repair was ever required on the CMC. It will be about a month before I attempt this.
GaryS
Posts: 47
Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 5:56 pm
Dino: Fiat Dino 2.0 Coupe

Re: Clutch Master Cylinder

Post by GaryS »

When you see how it all works and fits together you may think otherwise, actually quite clever, serviceable, protective, and structurally robust! If your brakes (MC) are in need of maintenance now would be the time. Once the steering unit is removed you would remove 2 - 13mm bolts from box section in upper firewall (bulkhead??) to the L & R of fluid reservoirs, then from footwell remove the 2 lower short 13mm bolts from the lower L & R corner of the pedalbox. The pedalbox with all hydraulics will now fall on your head (if you are not careful). Late 1967 cars you would have removed the 3 (clutch, brake F, brake R) hydraulic fittings from the couplings in firewall (actually attached to the pedalbox). Early 67 cars you would need to remove hydraulic outlet lines from within the footwell (probably a pain). BTW the box probably weighs about 10 lbs with all attachments. Once the box is out it is a cinch to work on. After doing the routine on a particular car any subsequent servicing will be quite expedient. I can cleanly remove from my car within an hour .. But I hope never to have to do so again! A very good reason to bleed your hydraulic fluid to the brakes and clutch every 2 years or so. DOT 3 brake fluids absorb less moisture over time than DOT4. Unless you are beating the brakes to an inch of their life I would suggest DOT3 ...
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