The lever controlling the heater valve on my car is stuck. I guess I need to remove the console to get at the heater air box and heater valve. Does anyone have any helpful pointers on where the fasteners are located and how much needs to be removed to get to the heater air box?
Thanks, Ben.
Console removal 1967 Dino Coupe 2000
Moderator: alh
Re: Console removal 1967 Dino Coupe 2000
If you are referring to the specific heater control lever with the red dot on the far right side, you should be able to access the heater valve cable hookup without removing the console. Good chance the heater valve is frozen in place, to check slide head first into passenger footwell with a small flashlight - the valve will be visible and you should be able to grab the lever to verify if is operational or not. Do not use much force. To remove the console you will need to remove screws holding the wood center panel and any you may find along the lower side panel around the front transmission tunnel. Pop out the rear ashtray and remove the 2 bolts securing the console to the rear of the tunnel. lift the handbrake lever and remove the rear seat lower cushions, they just lift out, and that should give you the required space to slide the console back a few inches to improve access to the heater valve. To fully remove the console you will also need to unscrew the centerpiece and remove the shiftknob. When removing the centerpiece you will need to disconnect the 2 harness connectors for the windows. At this point for a full removal you would then disconnect the wood panel harness plugs and move that aside.
its really a super simple intuitive procedure. Just have at it if you need to.
its really a super simple intuitive procedure. Just have at it if you need to.
Re: Console removal 1967 Dino Coupe 2000
Very useful and helpful information. I just wanted to make sure there were no no special fasteners hiding somewhere as I don't want to force anything and break something. My next question is where are the fasteners that hold the front of the dash on? I have some gauges that need work.
Thanks Gary.
Thanks Gary.
Re: Console removal 1967 Dino Coupe 2000
I can sense your caution, and knowing how modern cars are 'snapped' together I can appreciate that - snapping fasteners into broken plastic bits on an old vehicle would be painful. Once you step in the timeframe with its practical methods and engineering you will (hopefully) lose any doubts when doing repairs and maintenance.
Dash is straightforward - though keep in mind I am working from memory! Remove the 4 allen screws securing the top vent panel - you may have to modify an allen key down to shorter length to access the A pillar fasteners. you can use a non hardened key to saw down to size as nothing here requires any force. To remove the top it is best to first remove the steering wheel. (factory wheel - an aftermarket may be smaller and, or extend forward more) You can still (most likely) remove the top w wheel in place but a certain amount of bending is required to get past the A pillars - the higher you go the more bending is required, and these pieces are a bit less flexible than when new. Once the top is removed you will be able to access and remove your gauges as required. (unless you have the hands of a stone mason or an iron worker)
The main part of the dash is held in place by 4 bolts though to remove it the console will have to be pushed back a bit if not removed. You will also need to disconnect / remove the hood pull in glove box. Detach the air / heat / choke control hand tabs (excercise caution) then remove their vanity cover. Remove steering column shroud and the switchgear. Pop out the fan and light switches and disconnect, also unscrew and disconnect the interior lights in each corner. remove all the gauge harness connectors - I think that covers the small stuff ... the manual throttle cable - not sure if its bracket is molded into the dash frame, if so its probably less troublesome to disconnect from inside the engine bay and let it come out w the dash, also do not forget to unscrew and slide through the trip odometer reset that is connected to the speedo if you remove that from the assembly. Now those 4 bolts. 2 are on top sharing a bracket where the vent panel screws attach, and the other 2 are in each lower front corner - you'll see a tab coming from the dash frame which these bolts secure down. I do not recall if you need to remove the side vent panel for access, but i do not think so.
Thats a lengthy read ... In practice its all simple enough and does not take a large amount of time to accomplish. Also a note for reinstallation you have a bit of wiggle room w the alignment to optimize the fit.
Dash is straightforward - though keep in mind I am working from memory! Remove the 4 allen screws securing the top vent panel - you may have to modify an allen key down to shorter length to access the A pillar fasteners. you can use a non hardened key to saw down to size as nothing here requires any force. To remove the top it is best to first remove the steering wheel. (factory wheel - an aftermarket may be smaller and, or extend forward more) You can still (most likely) remove the top w wheel in place but a certain amount of bending is required to get past the A pillars - the higher you go the more bending is required, and these pieces are a bit less flexible than when new. Once the top is removed you will be able to access and remove your gauges as required. (unless you have the hands of a stone mason or an iron worker)
The main part of the dash is held in place by 4 bolts though to remove it the console will have to be pushed back a bit if not removed. You will also need to disconnect / remove the hood pull in glove box. Detach the air / heat / choke control hand tabs (excercise caution) then remove their vanity cover. Remove steering column shroud and the switchgear. Pop out the fan and light switches and disconnect, also unscrew and disconnect the interior lights in each corner. remove all the gauge harness connectors - I think that covers the small stuff ... the manual throttle cable - not sure if its bracket is molded into the dash frame, if so its probably less troublesome to disconnect from inside the engine bay and let it come out w the dash, also do not forget to unscrew and slide through the trip odometer reset that is connected to the speedo if you remove that from the assembly. Now those 4 bolts. 2 are on top sharing a bracket where the vent panel screws attach, and the other 2 are in each lower front corner - you'll see a tab coming from the dash frame which these bolts secure down. I do not recall if you need to remove the side vent panel for access, but i do not think so.
Thats a lengthy read ... In practice its all simple enough and does not take a large amount of time to accomplish. Also a note for reinstallation you have a bit of wiggle room w the alignment to optimize the fit.
Re: Console removal 1967 Dino Coupe 2000
I've taken apart and rebuilt Alfa Romeos of the '50s, 60s, 70s and '80s and there are always little secrets that make things easier, so this is very helpful. Tricks like removing steering wheel to get the top of the dash off are always helpful. Only 4 bolts hold an Alfa spider dash in as well, and two of them are actually wing nuts you can turn with your bare hands, if you know where they are. I've had the screws out of the top of the dash for some time now, but the dash top seems to be held down by something from below. Are there air vent hoses attached to the bottom of the air vents? I don't want to force something and tear a hose made of un-obtainium. I had the manual throttle cable un-done to get a bit more wrench swing when I replaced the brake MC [that was not fun], and it was held to dash with a large U clip that I haven't put back on yet. I don't really want to take the dash off if I don't have to. Some day, I would like to have the dash restored. My car sat in some hot southwest USA sun for a time and the dash is brittle and has a couple cracks and the plastic in general I like to be gentle with because of the age, condition and the rarity of parts. The black trim rings around some of the gauges have faded to brown, but the gauges themselves, look OK. The clock doesn't work, but that in itself isn't enough of a worry to remove the top of the dash. Does the fuse block stay with the car chassis when the dash is removed? I like to take care of things as they become accessible. If I have to remove the console, or at least slide it back to gain access to the stuck heater valve, maybe that is the time to address things behind the dash. Restoration creep is a disease I suffer from. I pray I don't have to replace the brake booster/servo. The previous owner said the car was losing brake fluid. There were some signs that the brake MC might have been leaking at the booster but I didn't see signs of any leaks from the calipers, or from the non-functioning brake MC, and no leaks visible from reservoirs [replaced with new] or hoses [all new] or inside the car. I probed down in the servo with a flexible vacuum hose looking for fluid [Alfas are known to leak lots of fluid into the servo when the brake MC seals fail] when I had the brake MC out and didn't find any. I've owned the car for a year now and I have been working through some issues, a engine compartment refresh and valve clearance adjustment, chain adjustment, cam timing, distributor rebuilding, carbs rebuilt and anything that was screwed or bolted down in the engine compartment was restored or replaced. Front bumper had all the dings taken out and polished to a mirror finish. Rear bumper is at the polishing shop now. The car is just about ready for some new tires and a road test. I've only driven it in and out of the driveway with the parking brake a few times. Thanks, Ben.
Re: Console removal 1967 Dino Coupe 2000
Hi Ben,
RE: dash top removal - Yours may be holding on a bit from the front, against the windshield where there are a few (think 2) metal tabs that help locate and secure the piece. I have not had an issue with this, but it is likely to offer a little extra 'hold'- so as you start lifting the top above level of the dash apply some forward pull. The vents are not an issue, no hoses - they slot into air portal opening in the metalwork, but again the lift may help to un seat them if the dash has not been off since it was installed. That large U clip for the throttle can be a SOB to reinstall - I was having difficulty with that one and finally the thing sprung somewhere to be discovered at a later date. With the dash out should be an easier install for that clip. I secured the knob using an alternative solution, there was no way I saw to manipulate that clip into the slot with such limited space - sometimes its easier to take apart, other times things go together easier. Yes the fuse blocks are bolted into the bodywork. Did you take the MC out as a unit with the pedalbox? If its a later 67 where you have hydraulic fittings in the engine bay on the firewall (actually the pedalbox) removing the assembly is a pretty quick job and working reliably on the bench is much less frustrating. I seem to be reading your story and then offering as piecemeal response - now i read through and got a bit of the bigger picture - probably best to message me to exchange numbers - there is a lot to cover seeing as you may never have driven one of these before, I can help by being a reliable check point with your feedback and offer guidance for what can / should be expected (and maybe how to achieve it).
Gary
RE: dash top removal - Yours may be holding on a bit from the front, against the windshield where there are a few (think 2) metal tabs that help locate and secure the piece. I have not had an issue with this, but it is likely to offer a little extra 'hold'- so as you start lifting the top above level of the dash apply some forward pull. The vents are not an issue, no hoses - they slot into air portal opening in the metalwork, but again the lift may help to un seat them if the dash has not been off since it was installed. That large U clip for the throttle can be a SOB to reinstall - I was having difficulty with that one and finally the thing sprung somewhere to be discovered at a later date. With the dash out should be an easier install for that clip. I secured the knob using an alternative solution, there was no way I saw to manipulate that clip into the slot with such limited space - sometimes its easier to take apart, other times things go together easier. Yes the fuse blocks are bolted into the bodywork. Did you take the MC out as a unit with the pedalbox? If its a later 67 where you have hydraulic fittings in the engine bay on the firewall (actually the pedalbox) removing the assembly is a pretty quick job and working reliably on the bench is much less frustrating. I seem to be reading your story and then offering as piecemeal response - now i read through and got a bit of the bigger picture - probably best to message me to exchange numbers - there is a lot to cover seeing as you may never have driven one of these before, I can help by being a reliable check point with your feedback and offer guidance for what can / should be expected (and maybe how to achieve it).
Gary