Cylinder Inspection
Moderator: alh
Cylinder Inspection
Engine is out of my '67 2.0 litre for a respray. Good opportunity to check the engine condition as I hadn't used it much before the decision to go for the full refurb. Engine ran quite well though but I have no record of valve clearance checks or servicing.
I have taken the valve covers off, all looks well. I want to go the next level down and remove the cams, take the cylinder heads off and see what the pistons, bores and rings look like. Seems like the ideal opportunity but I am rather anxious about this level of work, not having tried it before.
I have the Dino 2000 Specifications & Features Servicing Instructions manual but I am looking for an online/download guide that advises on removal of the timing chains etc. Looks like it could be very worrying if pulleys went out of sync whilst i dismantle!
Any such document available?
Thanks comrades
Graham
I have taken the valve covers off, all looks well. I want to go the next level down and remove the cams, take the cylinder heads off and see what the pistons, bores and rings look like. Seems like the ideal opportunity but I am rather anxious about this level of work, not having tried it before.
I have the Dino 2000 Specifications & Features Servicing Instructions manual but I am looking for an online/download guide that advises on removal of the timing chains etc. Looks like it could be very worrying if pulleys went out of sync whilst i dismantle!
Any such document available?
Thanks comrades
Graham
- Tobi
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Re: Cylinder Inspection
Do you have this manual?
http://fiatdinoforum.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=47
By the way, if the engine was running good, I wouldn't go too far. Check the valves, but think twice before removing the head.
http://fiatdinoforum.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=47
By the way, if the engine was running good, I wouldn't go too far. Check the valves, but think twice before removing the head.
Re: Cylinder Inspection
Thanks for the advice Tobi, I know you are experienced in these matters. Why do you express so much caution about removing the cylinder heads?
To be honest, I was happy with how the engine seemed before but my friends are telling me to use the opportunity while it is presented and to check the engine thoroughly. We did a compression check and readings were 165 psi [1-3] & 175/190 [4-6], although I know this was not done correctly as the fuel pump was still connected, so we added more fuel with each cylinder check. Their worry is that the left and right sides had imbalanced readings [but again, this could just be the extra fuel in the higher cylinders]
I suppose, I could discover more problems and expense?
Yes, I had seen the manual you suggest [via the forum], I presume this is the best document to read?
thanks again,
Graham
To be honest, I was happy with how the engine seemed before but my friends are telling me to use the opportunity while it is presented and to check the engine thoroughly. We did a compression check and readings were 165 psi [1-3] & 175/190 [4-6], although I know this was not done correctly as the fuel pump was still connected, so we added more fuel with each cylinder check. Their worry is that the left and right sides had imbalanced readings [but again, this could just be the extra fuel in the higher cylinders]
I suppose, I could discover more problems and expense?
Yes, I had seen the manual you suggest [via the forum], I presume this is the best document to read?
thanks again,
Graham
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Re: Cylinder Inspection
Totally agree with Tobi. One of the most important lessons in automotive repair.... Don't fix it if it ain't broken.
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Re: Cylinder Inspection
As Stefan said: "Don't fix it if it ain't broken".500 Dino wrote:Why do you express so much caution about removing the cylinder heads?
If you start to dismantle the engine, you might open the box of Pandora. If you encounter a problem later, you'll have to do it anyway. Usually it doesn't get worse. You have a perfectly running engine. If you look for possible problems, you'll definitely find some. Then you'll have to fix it.
In my case, I bought my Dino ten years ago with blue smoke on the right exhaust. Some peple said, I'll have to rebuild my engine. Some people said not to do. I did not and still have a good running engine. If it will break, I'll have do what I've not done ten years ago. As long as it doesn't break, I've saved money and time.
Re: Cylinder Inspection
In my case, I bought my Dino ten years ago with blue smoke on the right exhaust. Some peple said, I'll have to rebuild my engine. Some people said not to do. I did not and still have a good running engine. If it will break, I'll have do what I've not done ten years ago. As long as it doesn't break, I've saved money and time.[/quote]
May I ask if your blue smoke is worn bores/piston rings,and if so how can it run good. I too had the blue smoke but from both exhausts.
May I ask if your blue smoke is worn bores/piston rings,and if so how can it run good. I too had the blue smoke but from both exhausts.
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Re: Cylinder Inspection
Meanwhile, I assume it's a worn/broken ring or so. It's from cylinder 1 only.
Re: Cylinder Inspection
I'll disagree with the others and suggest that since the engine is already out and doing nothing while waiting for the car, now is a great time to do maintenance. Depending on how many kilometres it has, it may not need much. The most important would be a top-end rebuild by just removing the heads. You can check the valves for ware, replace the valve stem seals, etc. How about some hardened valve seats for using non-leaded gas? Since the 2000 is all Al engine, you will probably not have any deformation of the heads, so a light skimming will be enough to make them true (if needed). You will also be able to feel with your finger if you have a ridge on the top of the cylinders, indicating excessive wear. If so, you will want to go into the bottom end and change liners and rings. I redid my top end for a few hundred euros in machine shop but it was a pain to do with the engine inside the car. I cannot imaging not doing it if the engine is already out. Damage from a broken engine can be much more expensive than this.
4cambob: oil can also leak from the valve stem into the cylinder (common) and from a failed head gasket. A compression test will tell you if the ring is worn or broken.
Dario
4cambob: oil can also leak from the valve stem into the cylinder (common) and from a failed head gasket. A compression test will tell you if the ring is worn or broken.
Dario
Re: Cylinder Inspection
Now my 2 Cents
If you do an engine, then do it fully. To just do the cylinder heads can damage the shells on the crankshaft as compression is rising from above.
Of course it is very tempting to do an oily engine once it is out. But if compression is good and the camshafts look good... I would not touch it.
Best Regards
Argonaut.
If you do an engine, then do it fully. To just do the cylinder heads can damage the shells on the crankshaft as compression is rising from above.
Of course it is very tempting to do an oily engine once it is out. But if compression is good and the camshafts look good... I would not touch it.
Best Regards
Argonaut.
Re: Cylinder Inspection
Now my penny:
If it runs well, never had any issues, then just do standard maintenance incl. valve clearance check!
Just to advise you to do a correct compression test to make sure all is ok.
Especially as it seems that your results are not so reliable.
My former owner, ran it 38years and who is also an expert in ALU (race)engine reparations/preparations, gave me the same advice.
Hence, it is up to you, but I'll keep to Stefan's route: Don't fix it if it ain't broken.
If it runs well, never had any issues, then just do standard maintenance incl. valve clearance check!
Just to advise you to do a correct compression test to make sure all is ok.
Especially as it seems that your results are not so reliable.
My former owner, ran it 38years and who is also an expert in ALU (race)engine reparations/preparations, gave me the same advice.
Hence, it is up to you, but I'll keep to Stefan's route: Don't fix it if it ain't broken.