Distributor noise

[alh]

The movement looks ok, the next step would be to check the advance curve on a distributor tester to see if the spring setup is correct. Do you have visible holes/grooves in the inside of the drum?

[fdus172]

There's your problem..... those pins should be up against the surface.... Could be worn springs, or the pins could just be sticking. I'd start by pulling the pins - if they move easily, then it's time for new springs. Be careful to get the right weight springs - there have been lots of stories of overly strong springs which then destroys the advance curve. Once new springs are in, it would be best to have the distributor checked on a testing machine.

[alh]

There's your problem..... those pins should be up against the surface.... Could be worn springs, or the pins could just be sticking. I'd start by pulling the pins - if they move easily, then it's time for new springs. Be careful to get the right weight springs - there have been lots of stories of overly strong springs which then destroys the advance curve. Once new springs are in, it would be best to have the distributor checked on a testing machine.

Not necessarily, it is not uncommon that only the first pin/spring touches the drum when the drum is not turning, depending on the setup. The springs are not two identical sets as one would assume, all four can have a different length and springrate.

The first spring should touch the drum though, if it doesn't then either the nylon shim on the drum axle is broken or the spring length/washers are incorrect.

[croker]

OK, so Superformance sent me some tiny washers and after fitting them between the springs and the pins it took up the slack. The dizzy is back together now and the car runs! Although it only ticks over well with the dizzy turned fully clockwise. However, nothing else on the engine has been checked yet and there is a noise in the top end which I have mentioned in another thread. Thanks for your input everyone. Next job, top end.

[alh]

The washers are for manually tuning (retarding) the advance curve on the distributor tester. If you installed them without checking the result then it is quite likely that the advance curve is now way below the factory advance curve, leading to a slower engine response, a bit less torque/power and incomplete fuel combustion (as the spark comes too late with rising RPM).
Turning the distributor fully clockwise (advancing the timing) to get the engine running indicates that the advance curve is now way too retarded.

You need someone/workshop with a distributor tester to readjust the advance curve, the Dino engine is quite sensitive when it comes to the correct spark advance timing.

[croker]

Thanks ALH, I think I will get it looked at. Can you recommend anyone who does this?

[The Dutch Dino]

Remember when setting the timing that the trigger for the timing strobe light goes on the spark plug lead number 3!
(I always forget...)

And if fixing your distributor advance mechanism fails, you can weld it fixed and put a programmable electronic ignition in. If you are not that specific about a hundred percent originality.
(I have an MSD unit which is nice as it creates a twin spark at low revs and one hefty spark at high revs. Mine is still triggered by the points but the curve is set by the MSD box)

Good luck!
(I just did my top end check on compression, valve clearance, carb cleaning and balancing)