Various 2.4 coupe questions door + engine rubbers door hinge

[DinoTomNL]

Hello,

I have a few questions regarding my Fiat Dino Coupe 1971 for when I get back to work on the car the end of this month.

1. Engine rubbers;
I need to replace them, already read that’s it a difficult job, best thing to do is lower the crossmember and take off the exhaust headers to get by?


3. The rubbers around upper side of front doors are missing on my car, how did you fit it? Or how should it be? I don’t know, (screws, rivets? Or?) Where can I buy them?
I found this photo: Is this correct?

5935_100990329912085_3684365_n.jpg (34.75 KiB) Viewed 9545 times

5. My door hinges are quite loose, so when you close the door you need to lift it quite a bit, any experience/photos on how rebuilding them? (I will also have a look at my slow electric windows motors/system, any tips on improving/tweaking them?)

6. Jets; I need to clean the carburettors anyway, so I was wondering if I need to alter them according to the current petrol? Or replace certain other parts preventive as well?

7. Oil pressure relief valve; in some old bills from the 80ies I found out that the valve was stuck, and therefore the engine had wrong oil pressure. They corrected it, but should I check this again? is this a sensitive part? Oil pressure gauge isn’t working either, what could that be?


Quite a few questions, hopefully somebody can help me or give me some tips! Would definitely be appreciated.

Kind regards

[alh]

(I will also have a look at my slow electric windows motors/system, any tips on improving/tweaking them?)

This usually does the trick:

• Remove and disassemble the electric window motors/gears, get rid of the stiff old grease and regrease the motors properly, clean the commutator with a brass wire brush and alcohol/contact cleaner, clean the brushes.

• Clean the electric contacts/terminals going to the motor and coming from the two window motor relays. I recommend spray contact cleaner (not WD40), such as Kontakt 60 or ContactClean, to clean the terminals/connections. Sometimes the relays fail internally due to corroded contacts, so if the actions above did not fix the slow window lifters, have a look at the relays and exchange them if required.

[doublegarage]

1) to replace the engine mounts. yes I don't think you can get to them without removing the exhaust downpipes, They kind of come down and "surround" the engine mount.

That's not easy - especially on the right side because the alternator and starter are in the way of reaching the nuts on the downpipes - but much of the work on those nuts can be done from above.

I received advice to unbolt the x-member and lower the engine. Maybe that is the easiest way. There'd be some serious disconnecting to do up above, but nothing too difficult.

Make sure to carefully inspect the engine mount brackets which others have seen cracked. See the thread on driveshaft vibration here for more details:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=25
In other words, you want to unbolt the bracket from the engine - not just the mount from the bracket.

I can take pictures of my door rubbers if you like, I think I have those still fitted - I'd be interested in pictures of the trim on the sloping section of the door up above that too as I think I'm missing parts there.

-Richard

[The Dutch Dino]

Hi Tom,
To trace the issues and solutions for others in the future it will be helpful if you split your topics in several threads. That way the posts with ansewers will be neatly together. It may be a bit more effort at first, but the replies are so much easier to read ( also for yourself). Thank you.

I will concentrate on the first question here: I did manage to get a broken motor mount out by unbolting it and lifting the engine with a jack under the sump. Put a wooden board on the jack to distribute the pressure on the sump. Nothing else unbolted. I assume you can do the same trick to replace the rubber engine mount. Once you have the mount out, the rubber should come out too.
It was a bit of a wiggle, and unbolting it was a slow process because you can hardly turn your wrench, but nothing too spectacular.
Hope this helps.

[GaryS]

Door Hinge: The factory hinge uses a plastic bushing within the center sandwiched bracket attached to the body sill. The plastic falls apart resulting in a dropping door when open. You will need to replace the bushing, obviously, to restore a smooth, sag free swing. Dimensions required 11mm dia (.433") x 43mm long x 8mm bore. I used 4 'used' valve guides by machining down the OD and finished length. The ID is accurate and the yellow alloy is ideal for the application (and I thought it was a pretty cool thing to do). The stainless pin which connects the 2 parts of the hinge together will need to be pressed out. I machined the guide to be a friction fit, guessing .0005 undersize, but this is not critical. When reassembling the hinge use a washer between the upper claw and the restored center piece to accommodate the weight of the door. The original Bertone plastic bushing has a collar for this purpose. Realigning the door can be tedious, but you should be able to get it perfect. New stainless Allen cap screws are available (McMaster Carr # 92125A box 25) for the hinge - 32 required in all.

Carbeuration: My experience is based on 2l motors, but should apply none the less. If you have ANY stumbles, hesitations, holes, etc. in the power delivery with either miniscule or significant throttle application, chances are you will find a rejet very beneficial. BEFORE going there you must be CERTAIN you have a correctly functioning distributor and ignition system. (correctly functioning advance mechanism - proper points opening indexed to distributor body, and hence proper cap contact alignment .. there is an illustration of this in one of the shop manuals, memory, not always good, recalls seeing this in the Ferrari 246 one .. for starters) AND the carbs must be in perfect operational order. (properly syncd together, and not overlooking throttle plates correctly aligned with the progression holes in the body casting at the idle setting - base warping, early DCN - pump jets functioning correctly - proper float adjustment - etc.) I have owned 2 Dinos, both have benefited from jet optimization, each with a different solution. Your slow run circuit is the heart and soul of a good running Dino. hint hint ...
Gary

[DinoTomNL]

Started on the door hinges and mechanisms today. Here some photos:

hinges with a lot of play;

hinges

foto 2 (1).JPG (164.98 KiB) Viewed 9045 times

door retainer which lost his function:

door retainer mechanism

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photos i found on yahoo forum how to improve it with some v belt glued on there and some grooves;

afterwards

after1.jpg (58.01 KiB) Viewed 9045 times

afterwards2

Here a photo Gary sent me on how to improve the hinges:

Regards
Tom