Dinoplex quick test: How?

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Luis A
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Dinoplex quick test: How?

Post by Luis A »

Hi guys, I can't search the board for "Dinoplex" since the term is too common... I have read many posts about Dinoplex and also Adrian's incredibly useful Dinoplex website. I'd like to verify how to do a quick test of whether the Dinoplex is completely functional or not without tools or removing it from the car to open it check voltages, etc.

Could be as simple as just switching the Emergenza/Normale switch from one position to the other and seeing how the car runs in each position? Would it run at all in Normale if the Dinoplex is not functional? And can the switch be changed from one position to the other while the car is running?

Thanks for any suggestions,

Luis
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Tobi
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Re: Dinoplex quick test: How?

Post by Tobi »

Don't switch while running. You need different coils for the two modes. If the engine is running in Normale, the Dinoplex is working.
Luis A
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Re: Dinoplex quick test: How?

Post by Luis A »

The 101 C/D/E, the large Dinoplex box, only has one external coil doesn’t it? Therefore the same coil for both modes doesn’t it?
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Tobi
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Re: Dinoplex quick test: How?

Post by Tobi »

Luis A wrote:The 101 C/D/E, the large Dinoplex box, only has one external coil doesn’t it? Therefore the same coil for both modes doesn’t it?
Yes, you're right. I've mixed this up. There is a great diagnosis on Adrian's site: http://www.dinoplex.org/aec101diag/aec101diag.html
If the engine is running in "Normale", the DInoplex works at least. If it is running good, there should be no issues with the Dinoplex. It would not run with a defective Dinoplex.

By the way, there is a workaround for a better search across the site: http://fiatdinoforum.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=705
Dinoswede
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Re: Dinoplex quick test: How?

Post by Dinoswede »

There is a way making a simple test of the Dinoplex:

1. Disconnect the black wire from the distributor points connector, coming from
the "D" connector at the ignition coil.
2. Disconnect the HT cable between the ignition coil and the distributor cap, at
the distributor cap end.
3. Connect a suitible spark plug to the loose HT cable end, and arrange the
spark plug so it is connected to a grounded surface in the engine bay, and
so you can easily see the sparks, when ignition is working.
4. With ignition key, turn ignition on and repeatingly connect the black wire
( step 1) to a grounded area in engine bay. Be sure not touching any of the
red cables from Dinoplex to ignition coil, or the HT Cable - High Voltage!
If the Dinoplex is OK, you should see MUCH stronger sparks in "Normale"
mode, than in "Emergenza".
Of course, this test assumes your ignition coil is OK.
Dinoswede
Luis A
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Re: Dinoplex quick test: How?

Post by Luis A »

Thank you Dinoswede (name?).

Thank you for the detailed instructions.

Let me ask it differently to better understand. If the electronic "Very high HV/Normale" part of the ignition system is defective, could you still get a spark at all without switching it to Emergenza? So if I am evaluating a car's functioning for possible purchase, without doing your suggested test, and the switch is in Normale can I assume the electronic very high HV Dinoplex function is working completely or this is not necessarily the case? Could it still be in Normale position and the engine run?
Dinoswede
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Re: Dinoplex quick test: How?

Post by Dinoswede »

As far as my own experience of the Dinoplex AEC 101 goes - yes, it can give a spark
strong enough to keep your Dino running, but still deliver a weaker spark than it was
designed to do.
Remember these Dinoplexes are more or less 50 years old, and the components
involved may have aged, and lost their specifications.
For optimal performance, the Dino engines need a very strong ignition spark.
When switching over to "Emergenza", you disconnect the whole Dinoplex ignition,
and run the engine at a conventional "breaker-point ignition", still using the ignition
coil, but no electronics what so ever.

Dinoswede
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Tobi
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Re: Dinoplex quick test: How?

Post by Tobi »

[quote="Luis A"
]So if I am evaluating a car's functioning for possible purchase, without doing your suggested test, and the switch is in Normale can I assume the electronic very high HV Dinoplex function is working completely or this is not necessarily the case? Could it still be in Normale position and the engine run?
Problems with a Dinoplex are not a show stopper when thinking about purchasing a Dino. Especially the "big" Dinoplex AEC101 can be refurbished. Even a poor Dinoplex with a working coil BZR205A is better than no Dinoplex or an aftermarket setup.
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