2400 Coupe engine rebuild

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Stefan2000
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Re: 2400 Coupe engine rebuild

Post by Stefan2000 »

Yes it is original that way. I think they are plugs though.
Can't tell you how to get them out, i would assume with an allen key or drill them out.
No matter what, i would remove them anyway, and once they are out, you will probably find a solution to seal them again with new plugs.
Dario
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Re: 2400 Coupe engine rebuild

Post by Dario »

Hi, the crankshaft should be brought to the machine shop (along with the heads): They will drill out the plugs, clean the inside passages, and put in new plugs.

There is a lot of crud that deposits in the recessed areas of the oil galleys. If it comes lose during the rebuild, it can end up on the bearing surfaces and compromise the oil film, leadings to problems later on.

It won't add much to the shop costs and it's standard procedure for a rebuild.

Good luck,

Dario
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doublegarage
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Re: 2400 Coupe engine rebuild

Post by doublegarage »

Thanks Dario, Stefan,

The crank was photographed at the machine shop where it will get opened and cleaned - he would normally send the crank out to the best place in the state for cleaning/grinding, but the journals all look good so we're thinking about whether it needs to go. Therefore the local machinist (and I) are asking what the plugs consist of, so that he can maybe do it himself.

Everyone is saying to drill them out but the replacement parts (Ferrari # 14326150) are threaded plugs, possibly aluminium. I'm assuming they get "disturbed" when they're inserted therefore need drilling?

I'm used to Alfa cranks that have unthreaded aluminium plugs banged in - and which therefore can fall out - the right thing to do with those is to drill and tap them, then loctite a threaded plug back in, maybe with some disturbance also.

Thanks all,

-Richard
Dario
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Re: 2400 Coupe engine rebuild

Post by Dario »

Hi, you are correct about the plugs being threaded on the ferrari crankshafts. I would assume that they are as well on these but, as you can see, they were inserted and ground flat against the counterweights. So, not much left to get a hex key in there to undo them. The place I bought mine to simply machined new threaded plugs to replace the old ones.
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doublegarage
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clutch kit

Post by doublegarage »

I've been buying new parts while the engine is at the machine shop, including a clutch kit (pressure plate, friction disk, throwout bearing)

The 2400 flywheel has been re-surfaced - so the dowel-pins were removed, surface re-ground, pins replaced.

But...the new pressure plate does not fit on the pins. Where the old pressure plate has large bosses with holes for the pins, the new one has no way to accommodate those pins.

I bought the kit from Superformance - looking at the clutch kit offered by Dinoparts, the pictures are exactly the same. There is no manufacturer marking on the parts whatsoever so I don't know where they buy it. The 'fingers' of the pressure plate (where the throwout bearing pushes) are 5mm closer to the flywheel. But I suppose that can be compensated by the clutch cable linkage adjustment.

I guess the idea is that the torque is all taken by the mounting screws (x6) and not shared with these dowel pins. I tried to look for someone to rebuild the original pressure plate, since it seems to be a better/more robust design - but I guess that's no longer 'a thing' - everybody just buys new parts.

Has anybody fitted a recent clutch kit from one of our 2 favourite suppliers and can confirm that it works well?

Thanks,

-Richard
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doublegarage
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Re: 2400 Coupe engine rebuild

Post by doublegarage »

Has anybody fitted a recent clutch kit from Superformance or Dinoparts?

There are two sizes of dowel-pin fitted to the flywheel
3 x 4152287 (about 10.8mm diameter and 25mm long
(the parts book shows a lockring on the end of each)
3 x 4111201 (tapered, about 8mm max diameter and shorter)
flywheel sketch.png
The 4152287 pins interfere with the new clutch pressure plate and will have to be removed
The 4111201 pins, at 8mm, are too small for the 10mm hole in the pressure plate, therefore provide no locating function

is that going to work?

Thanks,

-Richard
bhiggins2
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Re: 2400 Coupe engine rebuild

Post by bhiggins2 »

Richard,
Thanks for the excellent write up on the cylinder head removal tool. I hope I never need one, but if I do, I know where to get the specs!
I need to replace my clutch, so the transmission needs to come out. I have seen other forum posts about it being possible to remove the transmission with the engine in the car. I was looking at that the other day and it must be really tight as the transmission has to come back a long way to clear the bell housing studs on the back of the engine.
I think I am going to drop the engine and transmission together like you did.
I just got a 4 post lift and looking at the Dino from underneath [from a standing position!], it looks like the cross member is wider than the runways on the lift.
Did you have any problems with clearance removing the engine/transmission/crossmember?
I was wondering what the spacing/measurement was between the runways on your lift.
Thanks,
Ben Higgins
Galveston, Texas USA
1967 FIAT Dino coupe 2000
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doublegarage
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Re: 2400 Coupe engine rebuild

Post by doublegarage »

Hi Ben,

A couple of things to watch out for if you drop the engine/gearbox like I did.

Have you watched this video from Mark Devaney?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WErUFFZ ... lianGarage

At the start he has problems with the captive nuts INside the chassis rails, but as mentioned before in this thread - this also happened to me. I tested each cross-member bolt, slackened one of them 2 turns and then tightened back up - on to the next one etc. All of them came undone no problem. BUT, on the day I lowered the engine, one of them seized in the nut as it came further down - and broke off the nut. Therefore had to cut the head off the bolt and carry on.

I was thinking, one thing that might have worked (too late now)...drill a small hole into the rail above each captive nut and squirt "a lot" of penetrating oil in there, hopefully hitting the stump of the bolt so that it gets saturated and comes down through the nut easier. Just a thought.

And secondly, yes! the cross-member doesn't fit between the ramps of a 4-post lift. I got an extra-wide lift, but that means the posts are further apart, but not the ramps. So I had to raise my jacking cart up under the sump;
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-c ... 60438.html
Then undo the cross-member bolts, lower the cart a bit, then undo the engine-mounts so that the cross-member is detached from the engine, rotate the cross member so that it fits between the ramps, then lower the cart/raise the car.

best to remove distributor, oil filter, other stuff to give more clearance for it drop past the radiator, sway-bar mountings, the front lip of the body etc. I took my exhaust manifold off first but that's a terrible job on the car so might at look at fitting them first before raising the engine, not sure that they fit though.

If I had put a big block of wood between sump and cart then I could have pulled the cross-member out, it won't slide out if the sump is on the cart - that's what I'll do when it goes back in.

Otherwise no problem, good luck

-Richard
bhiggins2
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Re: 2400 Coupe engine rebuild

Post by bhiggins2 »

Thanks Richard.
All very helpful and useful information.
Much appreciated.
What is your plan to deal with the broken/cut bolt?
Regards,
Ben
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doublegarage
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Re: 2400 Coupe engine rebuild

Post by doublegarage »

I'll post some pictures next time I'm in there. But so far I've opened a 'square' around the area of the bad nut, in the engine-side vertical wall of the chassis rail - i.e. cut bottom and sides and then hinged/bent it up on the top/4th side.

Now cleaning up the interior ready to weld a nut in - the oem nuts are just tack-welded at 3 corners - easy to see why they snap off.

Also going to tap out the remaining 3 nuts, get them really clean and lubed up. New bolts I think. M12 x 1.25 x 40

-Richard
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